Month 2 - Arrive and travel in the Philippines

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Hope you enjoy seeing what we are up to as I "journal" highlights of our travels for family, friends and as a reminder to ourselves!

We say a fond farewell to Sri Lanka from the Executive Lounge (received a pass for the inconvenience of cancelled ticket). More free wifi, food and drink for us!  Our flight to Manila by way of Bangkok, departed at 130am.....1.5 hours after our visa expired, but no issue. Phew! As a result however, our stay in Manila is shortened by a day. We take a quick shower and nap before heading out to see the sites (few that there are as suggested in our Lonely Planet guide book).

Our first impressions are of an urban city, skyscrapers, seaport and and 4 lane highways and all the franchise comfort food you can ear (Mc Donald's, Starbucks, DQ, Pizza Hut, KFC, etc.). But, wait. We see street vendors (selling fried chicken in pic), funny, colorful transport, called "jeepneys" and Pope Francis' picture all over the place, from his recent visit to Manila. As we walk out of our hotel, we are struck by the horrendous, treacherous sidewalks, homeless and a few betting establishments. Many of the locals speak English, which makes it easy to ask directions etc..

Our first destination is the Chinese Gardens at the back of beautiful, local Rizal park, named after one of Philippines heros. One of the exhibits is The Walk of Wisdom, a covered walkway with wise quotes posted every few feet. We find a PERFECT one for Aaron, I mean us!! He he!

Our walk continues, to Intramuros, a part of Manila,  known for its colorful street (and squatter life) inside the walls of a once, protective fort.

I am invited to play Mahjong, but they don't play with cards!

Intramuros (Latin, "within the walls") is the oldest district and historic core of the City of Manila. Also called the Walled City, the original city of Manila was the seat of government when the Philippines were part of the Spanish Empire. The squatters are friendly and welcome us to "the USA." We ask what they mean, and are told "United Squatters Area" with a chuckle. People are incredibly friendly, including these 2 guys doing laundry, as we walk through their cramped living space after being invited in.

Before we call it quits for the day, we pass by a wedding in progress. Not the first wedding we've stumbled upon when traveling. What makes this different, is that there is another groom and bridal party waiting in the back of the church for the next bride to come in as they wait their turn!? Must be a lot of weddings for them to be scheduled back to back, or like revolving doors! One bride flashes the Victory or Peace sign as Aaron takes her pic.

Hey tourist, what are you doing at my
wedding? Just kidding!

On Sunday, another long walk takes us to the recommended, Chinese Cemetery or should I say, "condos" for the deceased?!? Seriously, some mausoleums have bathroom, AC, chairs, a kitchen and even a second floor! The joke is that they are for the dead as they pass from one life to another. The real scoop however, is that all the creature comforts are for visiting family members to use as they pay their respects to their ancestors. It is not lost on us, that these structures for the dead, are nicer than those for the living, on the other side of the wall or in the "USA". See for yourself.

We finish our sightseeing with a jeepney ride to Chinatown for lunch. All good. The streets and stores are filled with red decorations in anticipation for the upcoming Chinese New Year.  Chickens and small white mice are in cages, available for sale. Lots of them! Two long walks in two days just about covers Manila for us. We do fit in one more return visit to Rizal park for an evening "Concert in the Park"when we return to the city at the end of the week. The group, FAMOUS, are 6 young, attractive Asian boys that leave the girls screaming and swooning. Sorta a Backstreet Boys kinda frenzy for this new music group of 4 months, on their first tour! Fun.

Our 2 days in Manila have come to an end. Not a bad quick tour of some of the notable sights in this hustling, bustling city. We have a nice dinner and bundle up for what is expected to be an 8 hour cold, overnight bus ride to Banaue.

At the station, we meet two couples traveling that could be us! Retired, in their early 60s, volunteer/travel during winter months and pretty much travel in same style as us..... all the way to having my same luggage!? And get this, one couple is from CT and used to work at EF (where my nephew used to work) and the other are from near Ann Arbor, MI. Go BLUE!

As for the bus ride, it was definitely cold plus there were more tight S curves one after another than either of us can ever remember driving! We arrive in Banaue around 6am for breakfast, before checking into our hotel. Brrrrrrrrrrrr....... the mountain air and low hanging clouds, make for chilly temps. Daytime with sun, is 70ish, at night, could get into 50s. We are talking all clothing layers coming out of our pack to wear and blankets plus long underwear at night! But, a really nice change from the heat, noise and hustle of Manila.

Why Banaue? In addition to the area being a refuge away from the city, a three hour hike to Batad, takes you to a UNESCO declared World Heritage site for its 2000 year old rice paddy terraces, forming an almost amphitheater like view nestled in the mountains. Just beautiful. Our walks take us to see the views, local culture (homes, way of cooking, schools) and how these indigenous people live without all the "stuff" of modern day convenience. No wifi, cars, scooters, laundry machines, nada! To get groceries or anything for that matter, you hike up and hike down....period. And it's not all easy hiking. Lots of carved stone or dirt stairs and narrow paths that you ask yourself, "who built this and what were they thinking?"

We sit on a deck having lunch overlooking the terraces and marvel at how lucky we are to have the curiosity, ability, and means to find this slice of amazing paradise. Tell us, what do you think?

Onward to Sagada, three hours by jeepney to see the hanging coffins and explore the local caves in the area. We connect with fellow traveler, Jennifer, from Canada who we met in Manila. She is using same guide book, so is on pretty much same itinerary. Sagada is even more tranquil than Banaue!  It is called a backpackers mecca and the good restaurants, funky herbal and organic foods as well as allegedly available, home grown marijuana contribute to the casual vibe. 

Off we go to see the hanging coffins and large caves for spelunking. We did both with Jennifer and another traveler joining us each day. We were told the dead are placed in a chair to "better fold in the fetal position when placed in their coffin AT THE BURIAL SITE! The same chair is often left "hanging" along with the coffin. You can read more about hanging coffins, the burial site only for elders, wealthy enough to sacrifice multiple chickens and pigs, if you click here. 

Chair used to "set" deceased

Hanging coffins adorn the limestone cliffs

As for caving, yep, that's me,  my first time, rappelling down and back up in the cave! Our guide was fantastic and kept us dry and safe. He and Aaron became fast buds. We make our way back to Manila, hear the new boy band, FAMOUS, and fly out the next day to Puerto Princesa, one of the islands, where we will be beaching the next several days. Until then, hope our New England friends stay warm and safe. We can't begin to imagine the snow we left behind. 

Age 60, always room for more "firsts"

Agu and Aaron, Best buds!

Supposedly looks like a birthday cake!?

Tis dark down here

Called the King's curtain formation

Looks like a dinosaur was here!

Selfie.......See ya next post!

Week 2 Volunteering & a wrap to Sri Lanka. New surroundings!

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Greetings!
Although our home stay is working out fine, we realized we miss some of the camaraderie and story sharing with the other volunteers. We also realized we pass a hotel each day on our way to the Volunteer house. A light bulb goes off!  What if we could pay the hotel the supplement we pay the home stay, eat our meals at the house with all the volunteers, and still have the privacy of a room vs dorm? Wallah!!

After "hard negotiating", we agree on rate of $13/day, including soap, towel, TP, ceiling fan and yes, even clean sheets!  We move on Sunday to the hotel. Great view, nice big room, private bath, somewhat challenged staff, smelly watch dogs and....we still aren't sure if we were the only guests paying by the day vs hour! The staff also forgot to mention the 430am Muslim call to prayer that woke us daily and didn't stop for over an hour. But, it was still a good decision in the end. We thanked our hosts, leaving their son with new books and a toy car.

Meals in the house were good, with the opportunity to sit with anyone and hear what projects they were up to, share travel stories, swap shopping tips or make weekend plans together. Many of these young volunteers blew us away with their confidence and travel savvy as well as their commitment to "do good" during their gap year. Breakfast was egg, toast, fruit and coffee. Dinners were generally fish or meat, a curry, salad and a rice or noodle dish.

The other big decision was whether I stay at my assignment or switch? After week 1, it didn't seem like the timing was good for a volunteer to be at the preschool, so early in the semester when staff and students were so new. I didn't have a sense if I was value add and at one point, my Coordinator and I thought we may not be invited back.  Well, it seems, the Coordinator wasn't invited back (seems some parents, kids and/or administration were culturally uncomfortable with a guy helping out in an all female teacher preschool). Meanwhile, the Principal wanted me to finish the week. Not being a quitter, unless I have to, I stayed.

I cannot tell you how GOOD my last week was. It was either a full moon, the kids were tired of crying, I adapted to more of a "helper" role or a combination of things, but I taught the teachers, watched them incorporate what they learned and totally enjoyed the students! It was a bit weird though, being part of their custom where the kids touch the ground by your feet in respect and thanks for your teaching. The response is to pat them on the head as a blessing and to rise. Oh well, when in Sri Lanka, do as they do.

The twins finally feed themselves... with their new friend!

What's wrong here? Missing the letter E!!?

Aaron remained with the monastery temple renovation, helping break in a new volunteer "crew" during week two. His clothes, and possibly, feet, will forever remind him of all the painting he did. Since he was working at a holy temple, no shoes are allowed, even if there to work. Check out the alternative to a ladder used to do high wall!!? OSHA, where are you? Answer: Not anywhere around! LOL. All said and done, Aaron covered lots of square feet painting school, stupa, and administration building for the Head monk. He really enjoyed the people, both locals and fellow volunteers, the view and getting so much done in 2 weeks.

What would OSHA say about
Cirque de Soleil painting?!

Yet another new skill for Aaron!

The end of the week, became the beginning of my BIG 60 birthday celebrations! Aaron totally surprised me after Thursday's dinner, with volunteers bringing in 2 cakes, with candle, to a rousing Happy Birthday from over 50 volunteers along with their good wishes before we said goodbye the next day! WOW! He planned the selection, decoration of cakes, bringing camera and pulling this off right under my nose! The night before, we "just happened" to eat dinner above the bakery where he ordered the cakes. Nice job, baby. Thanks.

The following day, I had another surprise. It was the end of month when the school celebrates birthdays. They included me along with the two 4 year olds, to be blessed in front of the school and parents, by the Head monk and then called back on stage, to receive a gift and have everyone sing Happy Birthday in ENGLISH! How absolutely touching and so very, very special! The 2 birthday students meanwhile, received gifts from both the school and parents, again, doing the ground by your feet touching custom. I passed.

As for my actual birthday, we celebrated with a long bike ride to the ancient Sacred City in Anuradhapura, having left Kandy for the North, on Saturday. The Sacred City, and former capital, covers a huge campus made up of temples, stupas, pools, gardens, lots of green trees, monkeys and spirit. At each sacred place, shoes and hats have to be removed. Of course biking, wouldn't you know, I wore socks and shoes. ugh, every stupa. We quit at # 7 or so. Aside from pics, for more history, click here.

Stupa allegedly made with
over 90 MILLION bricks?!

A quiet candlelight dinner and glass of wine followed, topped off with a SUPERBOWL WIN FOR THE PATRIOTS! Not bad. As for the game, we were able to listen clearly to 1st half on web radio and then connected by Skype with Aaron's bestie, Rich, and watched 2nd half together. Amazing technology, even more amazing game!

And it's only the beginning.....of what I hope is a celebratory year of turning 60. Thanks again to you early well wishers out there stateside who helped start my celebration even earlier, or who will join me when we return for more! You know who you are! Also, a BIG Happy Birthday to my fellow Aquarians, especially, Deni, who turns 60 with me on Feb. 1st


Our last days in Sri Lanka are spent on the West coast and beaches near Kalpitiya and Negombo. The former is a slice of paradise. We stay in a screened bungalow surrounded by palm trees and ocean. The shower opened to the skies and coconuts hanging from the trees. All meals were at the resort since there was no where else to go in this remote part of the peninsula.  Ahhhhhh. So nice. The ocean and gulf winds make this place keen for kite surfers. Kalpitiya is a 6k walk along the peninsula.  We hear ringing bells and are invited to enter a Hindu temple, celebrating the end of a 10 day holiday. A family invites us to join them that evening for the festivities. How wonderful to share. Along this one street, we see coexisting close together, Hindu, Christian, Muslim and Buddhist temples. A treat.
                                                               

                                                               

Negombo on the other hand, caused some trauma. We no sooner arrived and got on wifi, only to learn our flight out had been cancelled without notification. Not terrible, until we realized within seconds, that our visa expires and the airlines left leg 2 of the trip alone AND it was a holiday...offices were closed. So, we don't leave till the 7th but somehow arrive in Manila on the 6th?? I don't think so! Aaron was beside himself, but together,  we went into crisis mode and had the snafu resolved by the next morning. Phew! Do some laundry and off to the beach we go. Outrigger catamarans are the thing to do here, in addition to kite surfing. It is Independence Day (67 years), the day we arrive and the beach is PACKED with families and friends. The women, saris, berkas, street clothes and all, go into the water fully clothed, while kids swim in anything or nothing at all!

Our last $20 before we leave Sri Lanka

Fisherman and family sorting the catch of the day

A solo fisherman near his mosque 

What a wonderful wrap up to our Sri Lankan volunteer experience and visit to this beautiful country. Whoa! A lot to read, I know. That's a wrap for awhile, .......until the Philippines.