Gilman's Return to Asia

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Well, we must be honest. We follow the weather reports on CNN and boston.com and although we feel for our family, friends and neighbors, we don't miss the white stuff at all. Instead, we have been island and beach hopping, seeing a different kind of white stuff...... that being white sand and white caps on the waves. Sorry, but I told you we were being honest!

We left Manila and flew to Cebu only to spend the night before catching a flight to Palawan, our first of several islands on our itinerary. Just driving in Cebu was a bit of a reality check. So many people, cars, buses and dark streets. Our hotel was next to a HUGE, AND I MEAN HUGE, mall. The kind you can get lost in for days! The air con, as well as open rooftop area for eating, cinema and every brand store you can imagine, is the draw. There was a supermarket that reminded us of our Singapore expat days, filled with western delights. Marshmallows, Skippy peanut butter and Hagan Daz ice cream to name a few.

We arrived in Puerto Princesa, on Palawan, checking into a lovely hotel, called Hibiscus Gardens......with guess what on our bed, a beautiful hibiscus flower. Immediately grabbed a map, walked towards town and ended up having one of our best meals so far! The Kalui restaurant had a Balinese theme, beautiful wooden floors, carvings and a "set meal" that was so good, we came back a 2nd time (almost the next day, but waited a week). Very unusual behavior for us, but each dish was unique, delicious and beautifully presented, coconut and all. Yum.

Went to the local beach and crashed for the day. The thing to do in Princesa is to explore the underground river cave. So, 630am the next day, off we went with 8 others in a van and did just that. This place was recently named the newest 7th "natural" wonder and although we initially "wondered why" (ha!), it became clearer after our visit. Sorta amazing river in a very long cave tunnel (approx. 5 miles). How these places are found we'll never know?
More on river, click here.

The next day was another 630am start, this time with 16 in the van, to El Nido, a beach town in the north, known for its day island hopping, scuba and snorkeling trips. El Nido gets our "in the top 5" places to date on this trip, award. We both really loved the place. Laid back, great beaches, warm water, delicious food, including fresh fish and friendly, fun people. Our hotel was next to a boat builder, so a bit of noise, but nothing compared to the confused roosters. They crowed like it was always morning! And, mornings from our deck or while having breakfast on the roof top, were both worth crowing about! Just picture perfect.

We took one day trip (trip A of A, B, C and D options) out on the boat, stopping at lagoons, hidden lagoons, in open water for snorkeling and white beaches. Prepared grilled lunch was good until oops, our camera fell into the water. Saved the stick with pics, but sadly, think we lost use of the camera. Shit happens. My back up camera, phew, will have to do, until we can check out the other. We discovered local beaches after a bit of Googling, and were thrilled to walk their sand and play in their waves. Really idyllic. We so enjoyed being so close to local life as well as the beach scene.

Seriously, she was the only one "running" the store!

Zip line at Marimekmek beach

Nacpan and Calitang Twin beaches

Next, we returned to the Balinese restaurant and then flew to Bohol, our next destination. What does one do on Bohol? Why you go to the Chocolate Hills of course. There are over 1247 hills, all mostly the same shape and height and, at certain times and seasons, look brown, like chocolate. There are 4 legends as to how the hills got their name. We are sticking with the type of vegetation that grows on the hills. As for their same shape.....beats me! Click here for more.

A Japanese banana eating contest
at Chocolate Hills?!

And the winner, after 14 lbs
Watch out Joey Chestnut!

A recent earthquake left several churches in ruins, but were still worth a stop to see the architecture. The other highlight on Bohol and a must see, are tarsiers, a very small, cute nocturnal monkey-like animal, that are almost as protected as koalas........they are in demand by poachers and/or harmed by innocent curiosity seekers, due to their small and fragile size. Most unusual, are their BIG fixed eyes. They don't move! These little guys feed at night on bugs and hang out under cool leaves during the day when you can find them. More on tarsiers, here. The Alona beach down the road from our hotel seemed pretty benign until we went back at night. Tables set up on the beach, lights, music, fire dancers made the place come alive. Another "way to go" and pat on the back to Aaron, for finding this place!

As we met more and more locals, we realized that we put together quite a good itinerary! Many agreed on our selection of islands, many had yet to visit them their selves but want to. As non-divers, the draw for us was diversity in landscape, culture and beaches. We did well, as I sit here and think of each place to share with you. Siquijor (pronounced seeky whore), was up next. We ferried over to this small enchanting island, known for just that, being mystical and enchanted.

Just a lovely, quiet island where our hotel, Villa Marmarine, sat on a private beach. Our hosts were a Japanese Filipino family and everything about the place had Japanese touches. Walking the beach, exploring sites by motor scooter were our only "to dos" here. The island is 73 kilometers, or approximately 45 miles all the way around. A perfect day trip with stops for lunch, feeding fish foot spa!!? and a few pics.

Our bungalo on beachfront

The fish tickle!

The island of Negros (rhymes with legos), is our last stop in the Philippines, before flying back to Cebu, to fly to Kuala Lumpur on our way to Lombok, Indonesia. We stay in Dumaguete, the college town of Silliman University, the 1st American university, founded in 1901, in Asia. Click here for more info if interested.

We rent another scooter, this time to discover waterfalls, red rock hot springs and some of the island. Our final day takes us to two lakes called, Twin Lakes, tucked away, 15 kilometers from the road. The only way up, is for the 2 of us to ride on the back of someone else's scooter. My mom would not have been happy. No helmet, no pictures. It was very cozy (and our driver took good care to keep us safe).

On to KL to rendezvous with my dear, former work colleague, Chandra, for dinner, before meeting traveling companions, Donna and Carol (who we met on our Costa Rica trip last year) in Lombok. Lombok will pave our way to Bali, where we will volunteer for 2 weeks.

More from Lombok! Ciao!
Susan and Aaron

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Hope you enjoy seeing what we are up to as I "journal" highlights of our travels for family, friends and as a reminder to ourselves!

We say a fond farewell to Sri Lanka from the Executive Lounge (received a pass for the inconvenience of cancelled ticket). More free wifi, food and drink for us! Our flight to Manila by way of Bangkok, departed at 130am.....1.5 hours after our visa expired, but no issue. Phew! As a result however, our stay in Manila is shortened by a day. We take a quick shower and nap before heading out to see the sites (few that there are as suggested in our Lonely Planet guide book).

Our first impressions are of an urban city, skyscrapers, seaport and and 4 lane highways and all the franchise comfort food you can ear (Mc Donald's, Starbucks, DQ, Pizza Hut, KFC, etc.). But, wait. We see street vendors (selling fried chicken in pic), funny, colorful transport, called "jeepneys" and Pope Francis' picture all over the place, from his recent visit to Manila. As we walk out of our hotel, we are struck by the horrendous, treacherous sidewalks, homeless and a few betting establishments. Many of the locals speak English, which makes it easy to ask directions etc..

Our first destination is the Chinese Gardens at the back of beautiful, local Rizal park, named after one of Philippines heros. One of the exhibits is The Walk of Wisdom, a covered walkway with wise quotes posted every few feet. We find a PERFECT one for Aaron, I mean us!! He he!

Our walk continues, to Intramuros, a part of Manila, known for its colorful street (and squatter life) inside the walls of a once, protective fort.

I am invited to play Mahjong, but they don't play with cards!

Intramuros (Latin, "within the walls") is the oldest district and historic core of the City of Manila. Also called the Walled City, the original city of Manila was the seat of government when the Philippines were part of the Spanish Empire. The squatters are friendly and welcome us to "the USA." We ask what they mean, and are told "United Squatters Area" with a chuckle. People are incredibly friendly, including these 2 guys doing laundry, as we walk through their cramped living space after being invited in.

Before we call it quits for the day, we pass by a wedding in progress. Not the first wedding we've stumbled upon when traveling. What makes this different, is that there is another groom and bridal party waiting in the back of the church for the next bride to come in as they wait their turn!? Must be a lot of weddings for them to be scheduled back to back, or like revolving doors! One bride flashes the Victory or Peace sign as Aaron takes her pic.

Hey tourist, what are you doing at my
wedding? Just kidding!

On Sunday, another long walk takes us to the recommended, Chinese Cemetery or should I say, "condos" for the deceased?!? Seriously, some mausoleums have bathroom, AC, chairs, a kitchen and even a second floor! The joke is that they are for the dead as they pass from one life to another. The real scoop however, is that all the creature comforts are for visiting family members to use as they pay their respects to their ancestors. It is not lost on us, that these structures for the dead, are nicer than those for the living, on the other side of the wall or in the "USA". See for yourself.

We finish our sightseeing with a jeepney ride to Chinatown for lunch. All good. The streets and stores are filled with red decorations in anticipation for the upcoming Chinese New Year. Chickens and small white mice are in cages, available for sale. Lots of them! Two long walks in two days just about covers Manila for us. We do fit in one more return visit to Rizal park for an evening "Concert in the Park"when we return to the city at the end of the week. The group, FAMOUS, are 6 young, attractive Asian boys that leave the girls screaming and swooning. Sorta a Backstreet Boys kinda frenzy for this new music group of 4 months, on their first tour! Fun.

Our 2 days in Manila have come to an end. Not a bad quick tour of some of the notable sights in this hustling, bustling city. We have a nice dinner and bundle up for what is expected to be an 8 hour cold, overnight bus ride to Banaue.

At the station, we meet two couples traveling that could be us! Retired, in their early 60s, volunteer/travel during winter months and pretty much travel in same style as us..... all the way to having my same luggage!? And get this, one couple is from CT and used to work at EF (where my nephew used to work) and the other are from near Ann Arbor, MI. Go BLUE!

As for the bus ride, it was definitely cold plus there were more tight S curves one after another than either of us can ever remember driving! We arrive in Banaue around 6am for breakfast, before checking into our hotel. Brrrrrrrrrrrr....... the mountain air and low hanging clouds, make for chilly temps. Daytime with sun, is 70ish, at night, could get into 50s. We are talking all clothing layers coming out of our pack to wear and blankets plus long underwear at night! But, a really nice change from the heat, noise and hustle of Manila.

Why Banaue? In addition to the area being a refuge away from the city, a three hour hike to Batad, takes you to a UNESCO declared World Heritage site for its 2000 year old rice paddy terraces, forming an almost amphitheater like view nestled in the mountains. Just beautiful. Our walks take us to see the views, local culture (homes, way of cooking, schools) and how these indigenous people live without all the "stuff" of modern day convenience. No wifi, cars, scooters, laundry machines, nada! To get groceries or anything for that matter, you hike up and hike down....period. And it's not all easy hiking. Lots of carved stone or dirt stairs and narrow paths that you ask yourself, "who built this and what were they thinking?"

We sit on a deck having lunch overlooking the terraces and marvel at how lucky we are to have the curiosity, ability, and means to find this slice of amazing paradise. Tell us, what do you think?

Onward to Sagada, three hours by jeepney to see the hanging coffins and explore the local caves in the area. We connect with fellow traveler, Jennifer, from Canada who we met in Manila. She is using same guide book, so is on pretty much same itinerary. Sagada is even more tranquil than Banaue! It is called a backpackers mecca and the good restaurants, funky herbal and organic foods as well as allegedly available, home grown marijuana contribute to the casual vibe.

Off we go to see the hanging coffins and large caves for spelunking. We did both with Jennifer and another traveler joining us each day. We were told the dead are placed in a chair to "better fold in the fetal position when placed in their coffin AT THE BURIAL SITE! The same chair is often left "hanging" along with the coffin. You can read more about hanging coffins, the burial site only for elders, wealthy enough to sacrifice multiple chickens and pigs, if you click here.

Chair used to "set" deceased

Hanging coffins adorn the limestone cliffs

As for caving, yep, that's me, my first time, rappelling down and back up in the cave! Our guide was fantastic and kept us dry and safe. He and Aaron became fast buds. We make our way back to Manila, hear the new boy band, FAMOUS, and fly out the next day to Puerto Princesa, one of the islands, where we will be beaching the next several days. Until then, hope our New England friends stay warm and safe. We can't begin to imagine the snow we left behind.